News & Events | Home Design | Home Remodeling | VB Homes

A Better Home: Thinking about Wetrooms

A wetroom or walk-in shower room is to a bathroom what an “open plan concept” is to a home’s main living space. They can make a small bathroom seem larger or any bathroom seem more high-end and sleek while adhering to universal or inclusive design principles for those with mobility challenges.

Wetrooms and walk-in shower room lend themselves to virtually any design aesthetic from traditional to modern, but what the heck is the difference? Both are tightly waterproofed or “tanked” spaces—walls and floors—and, for all intents and purposes, there is little difference between them, as the floor of the shower area is flush with the rest of the space and slopes gently toward a drain. Because of the ease with which water, dirt, and grime can be swept down the drain, these spaces are considered easier to clean. A hand shower or shower hose makes cleaning walls and corners even easier.

Neither wetrooms nor walk-in shower rooms are enclosed other than with one or two glass screens for a less confined feeling and a luxurious open look. Tubs are often included in either, as splashing—or bathing pets—causes no concern since the surrounding area is waterproofed. However, true wetrooms are completely open and waterproofed spaces and are seen less frequently than walk-in shower rooms, though both have gained popularity in recent years whether in remodeling projects or new builds.

Below the beautiful floor and wall surfaces are waterproof membranes, primer, and tape, or waterproof wall panels which means that homeowners should work with licensed professionals on design and installation. Porcelain tile—as opposed to ceramic—is less porous and a better choice for the floors of these spaces, as long as one opts for non-slip surfaces. Ceramic tiles are perfectly suitable surfaces for walls that will only receive a light misting or occasional splash.

While large floor tiles are all the rage, smaller ones better accommodate the necessary slope near the drain. Plus, the greater grout to tile ratio is another reason to consider smaller tiles, as grout is naturally slip-resistant. Wall-to-wall smaller patterned tiles, especially under a free-standing tub in a more traditional space, lend the look of a luxurious carpet while infusing the space with a little life. If you have your heart set on the look of a broad expanse that only large tiles can achieve, use them on the walls or choose from among the many shower wall panels.

Some homeowners choose heated floors for wetrooms and walk-in showers rooms, which is not only a way to enhance the spa-feel, but actually helps the floor dry, as mildew and mold can be an issue, especially if there are no windows nor adequate ventilation; another reason to work with a pro. Speaking of spas, consider the luxurious feel of ceiling-mounted rainfall shower heads and body jets as well as ambient lighting. Lighting must be wet-rated for the space in which it will be installed which varies according to proximity to the water source. Again, call in the professionals for consulting and installation.

Wall mounted toilets–placed at a good distance from the shower to avoid having to sit on a wet seat, especially if there is no shower screen—preserve that wide-open look that is often the reason for choosing a wetroom or walk-in shower room to begin with. And the same goes for wall-mounted vanities, not to mention that moving these necessities up off the floor makes cleaning a breeze. But you could consider a pedestal or console sink if you want a look that is even more open than a floating vanity, though you will then need to clean around the base or legs.

Like kitchens, upgraded baths can add value to your home when it comes time to sell. But, while a wetroom or walk-in shower room sans tub can provide the ultimate in airy luxury for both primary and secondary baths, families with young kids often require a tub. But I tend to lean in the direction of designing for your wants and needs now, not for a hypothetical buyer of your home a decade hence.

Virginia Beach native and JMU graduate, Chris Ettel, is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel serves on the Coastal Virginia Building Industry Association board of directors and is past chairman of the CVBIA Remodeler’s Council.

A Better Home: Docks & Piers

As the boating season of Summer 2022 draws to a close, if you have found yourself vowing not to go through another prime season without the dock of your dreams, read on. Similarly, if you are contemplating buying waterfront property so you can dock your boat in your backyard, this month’s topic is for you.

Fortunately for me, I have worked for years with Robert “Bob” Simon, of Virginia Beach’s Waterfront Consulting, Inc. Recently, he sat down with me to share the 411 on building a dock in Coastal Virginia.

First, a couple definitions: docks are square or rectangular structures “up against the bulkhead.” Piers, on the other hand, extend into the water and typically terminate in a “T” or an “L.”

Next, when you are selecting a contractor, Simon recommends asking to see examples of docks built five years ago. “You don’t need to see a dock just after they drove the last nail in,” he asserts. Why? Because you want to ensure that the operation does quality work that will stand up over time with straight cuts, boards that don’t cup, and a structure that doesn’t wobble.

Secondly, in the Commonwealth, all docks over water require a permit, whether constructing, altering, or repairing. And, as Simon warns, “Don’t let a contractor tell you otherwise.” Apply for everything you think you might ever desire because you only want to go through the permitting process once. In Virginia, three agencies will need to provide approval: the Army Corp of Engineers, the state, and your locality.

When it comes to situating your dock, Simon recommends placing it as close to the center of your shoreline as possible because you want to be able to easily see who is on it, like unattended children. Also, by not hugging the common property line, next-door neighbors provide each other with enough room to get in and out on their boats.

In terms of design, the state of Virginia allows 400 square feet of deck at the end of your pier, including any float. All or part of this area can be roofed for shade. So, think about how you plan to use your dock and design for all functions: lounging, entertaining, sunbathing, fishing, and launching various craft.

Framing and piers should be built of heavy-duty marine grade material. And hardware should include, at a minimum, 3/4” diameter timber bolts with ogee washers, which are four times the diameter of the bolt.

There are more options for decking, including timber, which needs replaced every 10-15 years, or composites, which Simon feels are a very good choice. Timber should be Number 1 grade or better. Even a Number 2 grade will have knotholes which “pop out and become toe breakers.”

For floating docks, as opposed to their fixed counterparts, Simon is unapologetic regarding his touting of modular EZ Dock. Despite their affordability, he says, this company offers some of the most stable floats and kayak launches available. If you choose a conventional timber float, it needs to be 8-10’ wide; any narrower will feel like “walking on a surfboard.”

As far as boat lifts go, they are most all aluminum and of relatively equal quality in Simon’s opinion. So, avoid letting someone upsell you.

If you are purchasing waterfront property, Simon shares a few key considerations lest you wind up in court because you assumed something that turned out not to be true about what you own. In Virginia, to build a dock or pier, you must be a riparian landowner. That is, you must be platted to “mean low water,” or the average low tide over a period of years. Otherwise, the Commonwealth owns what you thought you did.

When buying, ask for proof that your property actually reaches to the water and does not stop short of it. Do not be fooled by the term “waterfront property,” which can be misleading in this regard. And be advised that an existing bulkhead or pier does not necessarily mean you own to the water because whoever built the structure may not have been properly permitted.

Finally, when considering a so-called “deep water access” property, be sure to study the tide table. And do not skip the physical survey, Simon warns, even if it is not required for your purchase. Take an in-person look at the property at low tide when the water may be anything but deep.

Armed with this information, you will only find yourself in “deep water” when you want to be.

A Party in the Pantry

Nowadays, homeowners don’t have to choose between pretty and practical when it comes to their pantries.

Fun fact: when pantries were first used, hundreds of years ago, they were for storing bread or pain, in French; hence, pantry. They have evolved to hold a wider variety of food items, dishes, and utensils with today’s pantries sometimes used for food or drink preparation.

And that leads to the first consideration. If you are building or remodeling a home, or simply carving out space for a pantry in your existing residence, the first order of business is deciding on function, as that will be a deciding factor when determining location, size, and design. And when I say “function,” I urge you to be quite specific as to the type, size, and even weight of items that you plan to store, as well as how frequently you will need to access them. If you are retrofitting a coat closet or void under the stairs to serve as a pantry, then, of course, the location is decided for you, and you will need to make decisions about function and design based on available space.

Once you know the what and where regarding this most essential of spaces, the next big consideration is how. The options for pantry storage abound and much of your decision may depend on how visible your pantry will be from adjacent rooms. If it is tucked away, perhaps the arrangement doesn’t matter as much, but why have a merely utilitarian space when it can also be handsome and inviting even if you are the only one who uses it?

Another fundamental question to ask yourself is whether you want all open shelving, all closed cabinets, or a combination of both. Regardless, avoid going too deep unless you are going to install pull-out drawers/baskets or Lazy Susans, as whatever gets pushed to the back is liable to be forgotten. In cases where deep shelves are needed or wanted, you might opt for more vertical space between them for greater visibility in the rear.

If you have perused pantry design online, you have likely found yourself seduced by all the neatly decanted and labeled products in pretty glass—or even clear plastic—lidded containers. Before you go that route, be sure you are the type of person who wants to go to the trouble to transfer all your beans, pasta, cereals, nuts, spices, and more into identical containers, rather than simply unloading your groceries, still in their original packages, into baskets or bins for a best-of-both-worlds approach. The latter lends a tidy, corralled, and controlled look, but without as much effort. But if you opt for it and will be sliding those bins and baskets in and out by hand, I recommend taking the time to line the shelves with protectors, as stained or painted wood will scratch sooner rather than later.

Also related to durability over time is building materials. Be sure your contractor uses ones that will not bow over time. If you know you will be storing especially heavy items, say cases of pet food, you might want to leave open space at the bottom of your pantry for these items to sit directly on the floor. Similarly, be sure that lighter weight infrequently used items are stored up top. Floor space under the bottom shelf is an ideal location for stashing a step stool. But if you have the space and budget, library ladders are handsome and hardworking.

If you want to use your pantry, at least in part, for display of, say, stylish serving pieces, consider glass entry doors or pocket or barn-style doors that can be left open. But think carefully about how to integrate display shelves or cubbies, as prime viewing spots at eye-level may also be the most easily accessible and, hence, the most desirable for frequently used consumables.

At least one countertop for food prep—even something as simple as making toast or smoothies—can be a welcome addition to a pantry if you have the space. Be sure to have outlets installed and enough storage for other related breakfast or beverage prep because, if you are having to move back-and-forth between areas retrieving what you need, you have not streamlined the process. A coffeemaker may seem like the perfect accompaniment to that toaster, but if your water access is in the kitchen, then maybe not. Ditto beverage coolers. If wine glasses are stored in kitchen cabinets, then it may make more sense for the wine cooler to be located in the kitchen too.

A butcher block surface is a practical and handsome countertop, but pantries—like today’s laundry and mudrooms—can be any style from farmhouse to contemporary and rustic to elegant. So, that countertop could be stainless steel or Carrera marble. To infuse your space with a style that is compatible with the rest of your home consider every material and appointment. Overhead, would a cage-style fixture with exposed Edison bulbs or a fancy chandelier be exactly right? On the floor, do you need a patterned textile rug or a woven sisal mat? While common wisdom might suggest that adjacent flooring should flow into the pantry, I would suggest that, in 2022, pantries can be their own “thing,”—not unlike a little jewel box of a powder room—with a stone, brick, or patterned tile floor and a contrasting color or wallpaper on the walls behind the shelves.

Whatever your style, your space, and your needs, an experienced and creative contractor can help ensure that your pantry is both functional and fabulous.

Butlers Pantry – Photo Credit: Glenn Bashaw Photography

Hitting the Roof

By Chris Ettel

February 2022

Designing a roof is like most everything else in life: there are pros and cons to virtually every decision. While most homeowners are not apt to change the design of their roofs unless they are modifying their existing home with a second floor, converting an attic, raising their ceilings, or adding a covered porch, replacing a roof is a home maintenance necessity. Though perhaps not the sexiest design decision, roofs are workhorses performing functions related to shelter, durability, weather-proofing, and energy-efficiency. And getting it right—however you define right—is critically important to the overall look of your home be it cottagey, colonial, or contemporary chic. But there is also your wallet to consider: material, installation, and maintenance costs on the debit side and property value on the credit side.

Let’s start with some of the materials available for roofing. For many people, there are two choices: asphalt shingles or the increasingly popular standing seam metal. The former (strip, architectural, or luxury, in ascending cost)—generally with 20-30 year warranties—are good selections if heat-absorption, flexing, and relatively low cost are your primary considerations, along with ease of replacing individual shingles.

Fully fireproof, longer-lived than asphalt, and recyclable, standing seam metal roofs are handsome, but require specialized installation skills. While “standing seam” has become a household term, it is not the only heat-reflecting metal game in town. With advantages and costs similar to standing seam roofs, metal shingles or shakes are the chameleons of the roofing world, as these stamped and finished shingles can take on the look of asphalt shingles, wooden shakes, or even slate or clay tiles. There is also copper roofing and corrugated steel to consider.

Speaking of shakes or shingles, the wooden versions of these are beautifully warm and organic. Pricier than asphalt, they have much greater longevity if installed in a dry climate and properly maintained. The are ill-advised for locales prone to excessive moisture or wildfires.

Glazed or unglazed ceramic tile is an excellent choice for salty air in hot climates, hence its popularity in southern, coastal regions. It is expensive but, as we know from century old villas, it has an impressive lifespan. The same is true of slate roofs. Gorgeous, pricey, and requiring highly skilled installers: these roofs will outlive their homeowners.

If your home—or budget—is unable to support the weight of true slate, rubber slate tile is an option that looks surprisingly convincing from ground level. Inexpensive and with warranties up to 50 years, it is an option worth considering.

For the eco-minded wanting to make an environmental statement, green roofs are the most unorthodox in this list of roofing materials, requiring specialized installation knowledge and maintenance. But the payoff is in pollutant removal from the air, thermal insulation, and a unique brand of beauty.

Modern and contemporary flattop or low-pitch residential roofs are generally sheathed with either membrane roofing. Low cost and long-lived, membrane involves seaming large sheets of one of a number of materials: neoprene, EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer), chlorinated and chlorosulfonated polyethylene, and polymer-modified bitumens. A friend who recently designed and had built a hybrid mid-century/industrial-modern home in the Outer Banks chose membrane for her low-pitch shed roof. But to avoid noticeable seams over her front porch, whose roof is more visible from the street, she chose standing seam metal for that area only.

We recommend doing some of your own research, as the list of roofing materials continues with the likes of concrete and bamboo and endless combinations. Plus, you will want to consider a wide variety of finishing touches such as cornices—horizontal decorative molding—and roof ridge caps which range from barely noticeable to subtle-yet-striking to highly decorative.

Once a material is selected, choosing a color for your roof is the next consideration and it can be tricky. If you want your home to appear larger, generally a lighter color will do the trick. However, if you want to direct attention to other aspects of your home or property, a darker color might be in order. Keep in mind, though, that the darkest colors create considerable visual weight and can seem to “bear down” on a home. In terms of utility bills, the light and heat-reflecting and absorbing properties of colors is a consideration: which is more important to you in which season?

Generally speaking, you will likely want the color temperature—cool or warm—of your home’s exterior and roof to be the same, e.g. a gray roof on a blue home or a tan roof on a brown home. But there are always exceptions and sometimes those are the most exciting, say a charcoal gray roof on a redbrick home. We advise looking at lots of homes in appealing neighborhoods as well as online because, if you misstep, you have made an expensive mistake that you will have to live with for a long time. With an estimated average of 40% of your home’s visible exterior devoted to the roof, depending on the style, it is worth taking the time to make a very calculated decision.

Wine Closets and Rooms

Nowadays, your wine cellar need not be in a cellar. With basements few and far between in Hampton Roads—and the ones that do exist increasingly being filled in for flood mitigation—today’s oenophiles are turning to little used closets or small rooms to store, age, and preserve their wines.

Proper climate-controlled storage allows wine to improve in flavor, aroma, and complexity, so the best space is dark and located on an interior wall which is less subject to the damaging effects of temperature fluctuations. Controlling the temperature and humidity is critical in order to ensure that tannins do not flourish and overwhelm base notes. Ideally, the temperature should range from about 45 to 65 degrees, or 55 to 65 depending on the wine, and humidity between 50 to 70%.

Dry corks can crumble and compromise the seal leading to oxidation and spoilage, while environments that are too moist can cause mold to form on the corks while damaging the labels and making them difficult to read. Though you can simply insert a wine cooler, kit, or cabinet into your “cellar,” more and more wine enthusiasts are opting for active cooling. A knowledgeable contractor can guide you in choosing the right refrigeration system. Both through-the-wall and split systems come with their pros and cons in the areas of installation, space requirements, noise level, and cost.

Probably not a DIY project for most homeowners, a refrigerated closet with an integrated humidifier requires rigid insulation and a vapor barrier. In addition to the walls, the floor and door will need to be insulated, and the door sealed. Though French doors with glass panels may lend an Old World appeal, less light—especially if it is strong and direct—is better for your wine. So if you opt for a glass-paneled door, be sure it has a double pane, possibly tinted. For what light is necessary, low-heat bulbs, like low-voltage LEDs, inside and just outside the closet are preferable to halogen, incandescent, and fluorescent which generate more heat.

Whether you sort your bottles by region, varietal, or type, be sure they are easy to retrieve without a lot of searching. Horizontal storage, to prevent the corks from drying out while maximizing space, is generally preferable. Wines that are best drunk within a short amount of time are fine to store vertically. Purchased wine racks, custom shelving and cabinetry, and recycled wooden wine crates are all attractive and functional options for storing wine.

If you are a connoisseur, you will likely need to account for a growing collection—one that might include a magnum or two down the road—perhaps with configurable storage. And you almost certainly will want space for displaying some of your most special vintages. Vibration is another enemy of wine, so it is usually best to locate bottles away from the door. If you a serious collector with highly valuable wines, you will possibly need to consider security with locks, monitoring systems, and alarms, as well as a blanket insurance policy.

If you have the space for seating and plan to use your wine closet as a tasting room, you can create a vibe that complements the ambiance of your home or contrasts somewhat to create the feeling of a world apart. For flooring, carpet is ill-advised, as it is prone to develop mold and mildew in a high-humidity environment. Similarly, hardwood installed directly on concrete can warp or buckle—though sealed hardwood is an industry mainstay—so more stable engineered wood is likely a better choice. Other good bets for your cellar flooring include tile, cork, vinyl, brick, or stone like marble or travertine. Some people use rubber because it is durable and easy to install, but it can impart a strong odor. Foam flooring options—like the tile you may see at your gym—are excellent choices because they insulate and are moisture-resistant.

If sipping and savoring selections from a personally curated collection of wines in the comfort of your own home sounds like the most appealing way to imbibe, then creating an equally bespoke wine room or closet may need to be among your top New Year’s priorities.

Virginia Beach native and JMU graduate, Chris Ettel, is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors and is past chairman of the TBA Remodeler’s Council.

Wet and Dry Bars

Without question, the way we entertain or relax at home is changing both as floorplans open-up and as our comfort levels with dining out fluctuate during the pandemic.

A wet or dry bar—or, if you don’t imbibe, a beverage center—may seem unnecessary but, if well-located and well-designed, reduces congestion in the kitchen and serves as another stylish focal point in your home. Wet bars require plumbing because of their sinks and, though nice, are likely not necessary if the bar is located near a sink or are simply stocked with a water pitcher.

Virtually any feature can be accommodated as part of new house construction, but the beauty of, especially, dry bars is that they can be easily incorporated into a remodel or even be the sole focus of a mini-makeover. Enterprising homeowners and their contractors have tucked dry bars into little used closets, under stairs, between doorways, into alcoves, under windows, and even in corners or large rooms. The trick is to not block traffic flow, yet not situate the bar in a spot so out of the way that it will never be used. Once you identify the ideal location, effort should be made to ensure that the bar look seamlessly integrated.

The components of such a bar are quite basic. A counter is non-negotiable. Beyond that, most bars are outfitted with a beverage cooler and storage cabinets below with more cabinets, open shelving, or a combination of cabinets and open shelving above. Electricity is necessary for beverage coolers but, while you’re at it, an electrical outlet for a blender and a coffee/espresso maker greatly expands the functionality of your bar. Your contractor can help ensure you have adequate capacity for any sconces and cabinet/undercabinet lighting, as well.

But basic need not be boring. These small spaces can serve up loads of style without busting the budget. Not unlike powder rooms, these spaces should harmonize with the overall look and feel of your home but, because of their intimate scale, can afford to sport a bit more flare without being obnoxious.

Generally speaking, a symmetrical design, beveled cabinets or those with glass fronts, and crown molding will lend a more formal and traditional vibe to your bar, though your choice of finishes can either enhance or counter that look and feel. When considering materials, keep in mind that anything that works in a kitchen will work in a bar.

For countertops, marble, granite, quartz, solid surfaces, stainless steel, butcher block, and even concrete are all suitable options. Backsplashes might feature a slab of marble or quartz, tile—either subtle or boldly patterned—stainless steel or other metals, brick or stone veneer, shiplap or reclaimed wood, or wallpaper, with the latter being most practical for a dry bar.

For appointments, open shelving, if offset left or right, leaves room for a sparkling mirror or dramatic artwork. But, since these spaces are usually intimate, avoid sacrificing function for form. Consider keeping additional appointments to a minimum and choosing instead pitchers, trays, glassware, and bar tools with pleasing forms, whether casual, bold and sculptural, or elegant.

Cabinet hardware in a range of metals, like the right accessory for a fashion statement, can complete a look. But lots of bar appointments, from glassware to bottles of wines and liquor, are sparkly on their own. So, consider opting for integrated pulls or understated hardware. Similarly, light fixtures, unless incorporated with restraint, can add a bit too much shimmer.

For such a small space, there are a large number of critical decisions for homeowners to make in conjunction with their contractors in order to stir up a little visual excitement without overindulging.

Fireplaces heat up the style quotient

Baby, its cold out outside …

Well, maybe not quite yet, but it soon will be, and fireplaces will warm things up, some more than others. But all of them provide coziness and a beautiful focal point to a room, whether traditional or sleek and contemporary. Most homebuyers report wanting a fireplace, which will typically will earn you back more than their initial cost. But the main reason to add a fireplace is to increase the enjoyment for you and your family now, rather than for a future owner of your home. Let’s look at several options for today’s homes because there are pros and cons to all.

Fireplaces generally fall into one of three categories: wood-burning masonry, zero-clearance or pre-fabricated or manufactured, and gas. As you sift through the decisions, be sure to consider budget, function, aesthetics and the style of your home, as well as environmental concerns, both inside and outside your home.

A wood-burning masonry fireplace is the most traditional and most expensive, but what most people think of when they think “fireplace.” Though certainly easier to incorporate into new construction, they can be added to existing homes. Consisting of a brick or stone firebox and a brick or stone chimney, along with a mantel for unlimited decorating potential, these additions require reinforced floor joists, possible enhancement to the existing foundation and footings, and permitting to adhere to codes in your city for chimney height, emissions and construction details.

If you choose this option, you may want an air-circulating system to force warm air back into the room rather than allowing the fireplace to pull heat from your home, potentially increasing heating and cooling costs. Regardless, wood-burning fireplaces pollute, and their chimneys must be cleaned regularly to prevent fire hazards.

Zero-clearance types of fireplaces come in wood-burning, gas, and electric. They do not require a lot of space, and because they are lightweight and their fireboxes stay cool, you have more options for placement, say inches from a hardwood floor or on virtually any wall in your home. Plus, they are easier and less expensive to install than a masonry fireplace.

These fireplaces typically vent through a flexible metal tube, though there are some considerably more efficient models that vent through an external air venting system. The potential drawback to the latter is that they must be placed on an exterior wall. Popular home improvement expert Bob Vila’s formula for determining size is to add the room width and length together and convert to inches, so a room that is 12 by 15 would require a fireplace that has an opening at least a 27 inches wide.

Gas fireplaces may seem inauthentic to traditionalists because they lack that characteristic crackle and aroma, but they may actually provide more warmth in addition to ambiance. They are certainly easier to start and they pollute less than their wood-burning counterparts. Like zero-clearance models, gas fireplaces don’t require a lot of space.

However, they must be near your gas supply line (propane or natural gas) and must be vented either through an existing or new chimney or through flexible metal tubing that leads to the outdoors. Unvented gas fireplaces are growing in popularity, using catalytic converter technology to supposedly burn all of the fuel fed to it, cleanly and with no off-gassing. There is some concern, though, that they do not actually burn 100% of the fuel.

Regardless of your choice, maintenance and cleaning is paramount for safety and functionality. In terms of aesthetics, fireplaces provide endless opportunities to heat up the style quotient of your home. Whether you choose a surround made of brick — painted or maybe with a German smear — tile, say one of the new Moroccan patterns or a reclaimed wood-look plank; stone; or the industrial urban appeal of concrete, your fireplace will provide you with interior design inspiration for years to come. Mantels, after all, are fairly easy to change out and can dramatically alter the entire look of a room, sounding a note that is ultra-traditional, rustic, sleek, or uber-contemporary.

Virginia Beach native and JMU graduate, Chris Ettel, is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel is a member of the Tidewater Builders Association and is past chairman of the TBA Remodeler’s Council. He can be reached at chris@vbhomesliving.com.

Make choices well in advance of need for in-law suite

Millions of Americans are finding themselves the primary caretakers of one or more parents. This relationship can be immensely rewarding, but it is not without its stresses. However, some of that stress is eased in providing parents with a safe, comfortable place to live that preserves as much of their independence as possible and the dignity that goes with that.

Many caretakers are finding it preferable, when possible, to create living quarters in their homes or on their properties. Not only does it often foster a deeper bond and reduce time spent traveling to and from visits, but it can often be more affordable than a retirement or assisted living facility. And, depending on health and mobility, parents in need of childcare find that the on-site grandparents fill that role beautifully. Both grandparents and grandchildren benefit from the closeness it affords.

The ideal time to think about a so-called mother-in-law suite or guest cottage on your property is before you need it, though it is rarely ever too late. Such a suite — usually consisting of a living or sitting area, bedroom, bath and, particularly if detached, a kitchen or kitchenette — can serve as comfy guest quarters, a private domain for a grown child not yet on his or her financial feet, or as a home office until it is needed by the older parents or in-laws. If zoning laws allow, it might even produce rental income.

In-law suites come in as many varieties as the people who live in them. They can be converted garages or basements, additions or, as previously mentioned, a stand-alone structure. When some homeowners build, they design their home with an adjacent powder room and closet on the ground floor so that converting the half-bath to a full is made simpler. Because in-law suites should be designed for the present and the future, it is highly desirable that they be on a ground level not requiring access by stairs. If there are stairs that cannot be avoided, handrails on both sides are a must.

Before you begin the planning process for a remodeling, addition or building project, make sure you are aware of any zoning or building restrictions for your area. Then work with an architect and contractor to plan both for the present and, to the extent that you can, the future. Based on our aging-in-place design and building experience, following are just a few things to consider. Generally, if you follow the principles of universal design, you will have done the best you can do.

First, create no-step entries, flush thresholds and one-level living. Then make sure that doorways and hallways are wide enough for a wheelchair and a scooter to fit through. Today’s preference for the open floor plan means that, to a large extent, doorways are less of an issue.

Flooring should neither be too slippery nor the opposite. We have found luxury vinyl plank flooring, which looks like hardwood and is available in many colors, to be an excellent option. Non-slip tubs and showers are essential — with a lip-less shower being ideal — as are grab bars in bathrooms.

Advertisement Declining strength can become an issue for some older adults, we recommend that you consider levers rather than doorknobs, touch faucets and rocker-style light switches. The placement of light switches and outlets is also important to prevent stooping and reaching.

If vision dims, excellent lighting is essential, though it is good for everyone. And to ensure the comfort of individuals with dementia, avoid busy patterns in your decorating scheme, as they can be disorienting. A neutral backdrop allows the person living in the space to personalize. Speaking of personalizing, there will likely be items with which the residents simply cannot part when they move in with you, so plan for adequate storage.

In kitchens and baths, ensure that cupboards and cabinets are easily accessible. Some individuals lose height as they age, and tall cabinets are frustrating and dangerous. For older adults who may find themselves in a wheelchair or needing to sit to wash their faces or apply makeup, a floating style bathroom vanity provides plenty of legroom.

Natural light typically lifts everyone’s mood, as does access to fresh air and outdoor spaces. Ample windows and easily accessible patios are nice additions.

If you choose the cottage option, plan for a covered, well-lit, and level walkway into the main house. And we recommend that utilities be supplied separately from your house for flexible control and so that, should you ever rent the space, you can charge accordingly.

These are just a few of the many considerations when making lifestyle choices that are this critical to the health and happiness of your family as well as those of your parents who come to live with you.

Virginia Beach native and JMU graduate Chris Ettel, is founding partner of VB Homes. Ettel serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors and is past chairman of the TBA Remodeler’s Council. Reach Ettel at chris@vbhomesliving.com.

Miles of tiles – technological advances have led to dizzying array of affordable, convincing options

Given the ancient origins of tile, we sometimes forget that technology and tile go hand-in-hand. Technological advances in inkjet printing and waterjet lasers, for example, have opened up new worlds of ceramic tile choices within the already dizzying array of options.

Tile is not typically something we replace often, so if you haven’t taken a look lately, prepare to have your mind blown. White subway tile evokes the early 1900s in New York City and will likely always be a timeless, yet retro, classic for kitchens and baths. It has been a particularly hot trend within the last few years, and there is not much indication that it is cooling off. For those who like the look but want a fresh twist, consider installing your subway tile in a pattern other than the traditional “brick” style.

But there is so much more to consider. One of the ways that improvements in inkjet printing has bolstered the tile industry is through its ability to convincingly replicate other materials like wood, metal and even concrete. With the meteoric rise in desire for the farmhouse aesthetic and salvaged materials, plank-style ceramic tile in a wide range of wood tones — some with a weathered, distressed and generally reclaimed appearance — are wildly popular. They can be dressed up by being laid in, say, a chevron or herringbone pattern, or made more rustic by being installed in the traditional way, especially if planks of varying widths, laid randomly, are used. Tiles with the look of a whitewashed wood floor can skew more rustic or posh depending on the context.

If stone is more to your liking, but you find the cost a deal-breaker — not to mention the upkeep of a material like marble too time-intensive — tiles now beautifully and more affordably replicate the look of marble, slate, travertine, limestone and more.

Other choices made widely available by inkjet technology are those that capture the look and feel of fabrics and wallpaper. Subtle, luxurious choices include a linen- or silk-like surface. More bold selections include damask, paisley and florals, both traditional and contemporary. Globally inspired influences, especially Moroccan, are infusing American homes with rich color and pattern. Black and white patterns with a stenciled look are particularly striking. If you like the idea but are not ready to go particularly bold, choose a pattern with closely related colors for a more nuanced tone-on-tone appearance.

While we are on the subject of color, it is no secret to anyone who follows design that cool tones, like grays, are highly sought-after. Whites and grays are replacing the “Tuscan” golds and browns that were popular a few years back. But, for those who want a hint of warmth, the new “greige” — a family of grayish beiges similar to taupe — offers a balance between the two.

Waterjet lasers have added a wealth of dimension — pun intended — to tile options. More subtle designs lend an embossed appearance to the tile’s surface. But that is just the beginning. Tile has become downright sculptural. If you go too far, you can quickly end up with a commercial appearance not unlike the entrance wall of a company’s headquarters. But with the right application, you can add appealing drama through light and cast shadow only possible with three-dimensional tile. From wavy ridges to raised geometry, there is much from which to choose.

Finally, if none of these options is right for your home, you might consider the widening vocabulary of shaped tiles. Hexagons and “penny rounds” are very popular, with fish scale tiles making a splashy entrance of late. For something a little more exotic, seek out one of the scores of “arabesque” options. Diamonds and plenty of organic shapes, like leaves, are yours for the asking. Choosing only one color or related tones keeps the appearance calmer; color and contrasting tones inject a bit more energy.

As for grout, the closer in color it is to the tile, the more the eye is drawn to the tile’s surface. The more the grout contrasts, the more the eye notices the installation pattern. And while grout glitter is available, it is not necessarily recommended. Though a little metallic shimmer to catch the morning light may be just the right finishing touch for your décor, I would have to think twice about it.

If you need help thinking once, twice or more about your tile project, please reach out to me at Chris@vbhomesliving.com.

Chris Ettel is founding partner of VB Homes. He serves on the Tidewater Builders Association board of directors, served as past chairman of the TBA Remodelers Council and is a longtime board member of the Virginia Beach Public Schools Education Foundation. For more information, go to www.vbhomesliving.com.

The basics of what you need to know when living in the Chesapeake Bay Preservation Area

If the thought of having to deal with a compliance board in one of our area cities strikes fear in your heart, it shouldn’t. All of us in Hampton Roads are, or should be, stewards of our coastal environment, and these folks serve as partners in that process. Below, with information provided by WPL Site Design based in Virginia Beach (www.wplsite.com), I will walk you through the basics.

As a body, each Chesapeake Bay Preservation Area Board is tasked with reviewing various requests to the CBPA Ordinance with the goal of enhancing water quality and protecting environmentally sensitive buffers adjacent to waterways, like tidal shores and wetlands. These areas, known as RPAs or Resource Protection Areas, are closest to the shoreline. In contrast, RMAs or Resource Management Areas are all other lands in the watershed.

In Virginia Beach where I live and work, the ordinance affects all property that drains into the Chesapeake Bay watershed, which equates to approximately the northern one-third of the city. And that equates to many property owners here and in the surrounding area who would be affected should they seek to take on certain kinds of projects from room additions to decks and gazebos to pools and more.

Here are some things you need to know:

• First, your local planning department can let you know if your home is in a CBPA.

• Approvals and variances are site-specific and individually-based. Some may be reviewed and accepted administratively by staff, while others may require CBPA Board review and sanction. An exception are minor projects within the landward 50-feet of the RPA buffer.

• Think of administrative staff members as your partners. They are knowledgeable professionals with degrees in related fields who want to help you create a successful project that meets your needs within the requirements of the CBPAO.

• The magic number is 2,500 square feet. If your project has a construction footprint less than or equal to that number and any portion is located within the RPA, the project can be reviewed administratively by staff.

• However, if land disturbance is greater than or equal to 2,500 square feet and located either in the RMA or the RPA, CBPA Board review and approval may be required.ADVERTISING

Following are the steps you will most likely need to follow for your improvement project in the RMA and RPA, though the process may vary from city to city and/or depending on the specifics of your project (available in brochure form from WPL):

• Topographical survey. City staff must be able to make an environmental impact vs. gain assessment about your project. The topographical survey, which depicts existing elevations and existing vegetation, will be required for most projects.

• A master plan, which is a graphic representation of your proposed improvements in relation to existing elements on your property, is highly recommended.

• The master plan is helpful for a preliminary project review with city staff but may not be necessary — and there is no fee charged by the city if it is — if it is assumed that your project is of significant enough environmental impact to require a hearing with the CBPA board.

• A variance to The Chesapeake Bay Act will conditionally relax restrictions that prohibit development within a certain distance from the water’s edge, usually with a list of board conditions. If your project represents significant environmental impact, as outlined above, a CBPA site plan exhibit (which does not obtain a building permit) will need to be reviewed by the board for a fee. Neighbors are notified of the variance request, which is also published in the newspaper, and property owners are required to post “variance hearing” signs notifying the public about the variance request and hearing date/time to which the property owner or their representative is required to attend.

• If the project is approved, many property owners think they have crossed the only hurdle. Not so fast. The creation of a site plan is next. Necessary for both city approval and for a building permit, the Site Plan is reviewed for compliance with city code and with the Chesapeake Bay board conditions.

• Following review, city staff typically generate a list of comments or requests that adjustments be made to the site plan prior to approval. Most can be addressed right away, though others may require further discussion.

As you might imagine, all of this takes time, e.g. 30 days for certain aspects, 45 days for others. Both WPL and we at VB Homes have decades of experience and successful track records when it comes to shepherding property owners through the process.

Don’t hesitate to contact us if we can be of service. I can be reached at chris@vbhomesliving.com.